Sapphire Parure

 

   

 
This diamond and sapphire parure was not made as such but different individual pieces came together to form what is commonly known as the Sapphire Parure or Queen Emma's Grand Parure. It all started with the tiara 1), made by Jeweller Mellerio dits Meller in Paris in 1881, that was ordered by King Willem III for his young wife, Queen Emma. The design of the tiara with 655 brilliant cut (South-African) diamonds and 33 (Kashmir) sapphires is from Oscar Masin who used his famed 'pampille en tremblant' technique (diamonds set on small springs) on this originally almost circular tiara. King Willem III paid 100.000 guilders at the time. for the tiara. The center part of the tiara, a large cushion shaped sapphire set with diamonds, is said to have been a brooch that once belonged to Queen Anna Paulowna Romanov. The brooch was incorporated into an existing design of a tiara by Oscar Masin. Originally the centre piece (brooch) was detachable and the two sides could be joint and worn separately. Later, a diamond and sapphire choker or dog collar necklace 2) and two large bracelets 3) were added that matched the design of the tiara. Queen Emma then added two other pieces of sapphire jewellery she had received as engagement presents from her husband, King Willem III; A large diamond and sapphire devant de corsage in the shape of a bow 4) containing a huge oval sapphire that once belonged to Queen Anna Paulowna and an oval Diamond and Sapphire pendant 5). The latter Queen Emma frequently attached to her choker necklace. Queen Emma left this parure  directly to her granddaughter Princess Juliana. The tiara was reset in a lighter platinum frame and the choker necklace was extended, somewhat awkwardly. Queen Juliana wore this parure frequently, although not as much during the second half of her reign. Queen Beatrix has worn the impressive tiara quite often during State Visits but she's never worn the complete parure.  As Princess, Beatrix has worn the necklace with a large sapphire set in diamonds as a pendant 6) but never with the tiara. Queen Beatrix also wore a brooch containing either one or two large sapphires (one round and one oval) set in diamonds attached to diamond wings 7) and a round sapphire set with diamonds as a pendant on a small diamond bow 8). In 2001 Princess Maxima has worn the oval sapphire set with diamonds, as a pendant on a small bow brooch 9) at the government diner on the eve of her wedding to Prince Willem-Alexander. It's not the same large sapphire from the devant de corsage but it is most probable that it once belonged to Queen Anna Paulowna. The bracelets of this parure have not been seen for many years. They are said to be very heavy. In 2004 a small tiara with only diamonds was seen on Prince Friso's bride and was then described as a second setting of the Mellerio Sapphire Tiara. Recently Princess Margriet was wearing what seems to be the dog collar necklace as a tiara: the original dog collar necklace is set on a wire frame (probably already supplied with the necklace) and then topped with five diamond and sapphire ornaments that were taken from the necklace belonging to the Wedding Gift Parure 10).
The tiara design by Mellerio 1 Work drawing by Mellerio 1
HM Queen Emma 4 + 5 HM Queen Emma 4 + 5 HM Queen Emma 1 + 2 + 3 + 4 + 5
   
HM Queen Emma 1 + 2 + 4 + 5    
HRH Princess Juliana 1 + 2 + 4 HRH Princess Juliana 1 + 2 + 4 HRH Princess Juliana  1 + 2 + 3 + 4
HRH Princess Juliana  1 + 2 + 3 + 4 HRH Princess Juliana 1 + 2 + 3 + 4 HM Queen Juliana  3 + 4
HM Queen Juliana 2 + 3+ 4 HM Queen Juliana 2 + 3 + 4 HM Queen Juliana 1 + 2 + 4
HM Queen Juliana 1 + 2 + 4 + 5 HM Queen Juliana  1 + 2 HRH Princess Beatrix 6
 
HRH Princess Beatrix 1 + 4 HM Queen Juliana 1 + 2 + 5  
 
HRH Princess Irene 2 + 3 + 5 Close-Up  
HM Queen Beatrix 7 HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 7 HM Queen Beatrix 4
HM Queen Beatrix 1 HM Queen Beatrix 1 Close-up 1
HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 5 HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 5 HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 5
HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 5  HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 5 HM Queen Beatrix 1 + 3
HM Queen Beatrix 1 HM Queen Beatrix 1 HM Queen Beatrix 1
 

 

HRH Princess Margriet 10 Close-up Necklace/Tiara 10  
HM Queen Beatrix 7 HRH Princess Margriet 7 HM Queen Beatrix 7
 
  HM Queen Beatrix 8 HRH Princess Maxima 9  

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